Filed under: Clarinet, London, Travel | Tags: Albert Schweitzer, All Hallows, Clarinet Mouthpiece, Club Quarters, Eurostar, London, Ramon Wodkowski, Tower Bridge, Westminster
May 27-31, 2010, we made our first-ever trip to London. The Eurostar whisked us there through the Chunnel from Brussels in under two hours, making it an affordable and convenient trip. We arrived at St. Pancras station at 8:56 a.m., walked to our hotel (Club Quarters, St. Paul’s), took showers, and headed right back out to explore.
Being near St. Paul’s Cathedral meant that we were very centrally located. Two blocks brought us to the River Thames and the new Millenium Bridge. For lunch we had - what else? - fish and chips.
After lunch, we walked on to Tower Bridge. Being a structure that so perfectly combines two of Wes’s main passions, towers and bridges, it demanded a climb to the top. The observation deck is enclosed in plexiglass, which was somewhat disappointing, but the mini-museum there gave us a nice introduction to London.
We toured All Hallows Church, where Dr. Albert Schweitzer made some of his famous Bach organ recordings in 1935. Like much of old London, the organ he recorded on was destroyed in a German air raid in 1940. The crypt floor in All Hallows has the original mosaic tiled floors of the Roman houses that once stood on the site. A kindly old English lady enjoyed holding Vera while we explored.
In the evening, while I practiced at the hotel, Katie took the kids out for a walk. She came across a garden on the site of a former church, St. Mary Aldermanbury. According to a sign in the garden, the church was destroyed during World War II, but interestingly the ruins were shipped to the United States and it was re-erected in Fulton, Missouri. At least one other London landmark now stands in the United States, namely the 1831 version of London Bridge, which was bought and shipped stone by stone to Lake Havasu City, Arizona, in 1967.
We ended our first day in London with a late dinner at the Gourmet Burger Kitchen, across the street from our hotel.
Friday we spent in and around Westminster. We saw Big Ben and the Houses of Parliament, Westminster Abbey, Westminster Cathedral (entirely different from Westminster Abbey, as I discovered), Buckingham Palace, St. James Park, and Trafalger Square. Lunch was again fish and chips. We rode the tube home and had a late dinner from another London chain – Pizza Express this time. Each morning for breakfast, by the way, we bought muffins, shortbread, scones, pastries, and milk at a Marks and Spencer grocery. The baked goods were so fresh and delectable that every day we bought more of them than we did the day before. The fresh milk (as opposed to the UHT milk in Ghent) was about the best we’ve ever had.

Katie with the London Eye in the background. The long lines scared me away from riding it, but I sort of regret skipping it now.
We began Saturday with a trip across the Millenium Bidge, past the Tate Modern and Globe Theater, to Borough Market. A market has existed near London Bridge in one form or another for over a thousand years, and it remains a great place to buy produce, gourmet food items, and a quick, high-quality lunch. I tried a Pimm’s lemonade and Katie and Wes shared a regular lemonade. Next we took the Tube to Trafalgar Square to meet my friend Ramon. Having not yet changed the clock on my phone from Belgian time, we arrived over an hour early. Once I realized my mistake, we took the opportunity to visit St. Martin-in-the-Fields church and the National Gallery. Most of the big museums in London, including the National Gallery, are free, which is a great idea in my opinion. We spent just one hour there, but we saw enough to understand that it is one of the world’s great museums. We managed to see most of the Dutch and Flemish paintings, including two Vermeer’s and a full room each of Rembrandt and Rubens. St. Martin-in-the-Fields church was interesting to me because it is the original home of the Academy of St. Martin-in-the-Fields chamber orchestra, which is, so I’ve heard, the most recorded orchestra of all time.
Saturday was the only day that we had any rain in London. The rain was not hard and lasted just long enough to give us a taste of London in the rain. It stopped by the time we met Ramon. He took us through Piccadilly Circus, Soho, Covent Garden, and to dinner in Chinatown. After dinner, he helped us onto a double-decker bus back to Club Quarters, our home away from home away from home.
Ramon is one of my best friends from the time I spent at the Yale School of Music. He moved to London six years ago and has developed his career as a clarinetist and clarinet mouthpiece craftsman. On Sunday, he came to the hotel and let me try some of his mouthpieces. He also put a terrific new facing on the old Lelandais mouthpiece I found in our Sint-Jacob flea market.
After the mouthpiece session, Ramon took us via Kensington Gardens and Royal Albert Hall to the Royal College of Music, where he did an artists diploma. We had Sunday dinner (Roast beef and Yorkshire pudding for me) at a pub, and stopped briefly outside of Harrods department store.
Monday we checked out of our hotel, visited the Tate Modern, met Ramon for lunch at a fantastic Turkish deli, and then went to St. Pancras to catch our afternoon train back to Brussels. On our way to the station, we spent some time in Regent’s Park. British gardens have a charm distinct from those of the continent. They are more wild and whimsical, and to me more relaxing. Katie had read online that a gate at Regent’s Park was the model for the one in Disney’s Mary Poppins where Bert makes his chalk drawings. The park certainly reminded us of the movie, but we couldn’t pin down an exact match with any of the gates we saw.
After nine months in Belgium, London felt several steps closer to home. Everything was back in English, buildings and streets had a familiar feel, and in general we felt more at ease. Moving from the exotic to the familiar, we felt a little as if we were on a vacation to home. Indeed, we relaxed and slept quite a lot during our five days there, just like you do when you are home from college. Talking to my Belgian friends, I was surprised to learn how many of them, given how short the trip is, had never been to London. To me, this is a good example of why the European Union is not directly analogous to the United States. EU countries have relatively little in common with one another culturally speaking. Ghent is just 200 miles from London, yet almost everything about the two places is different.
The differences between American and British English caused one or two misunderstandings. For example, when we got on the tube for the first time, an older man asked us, “Are you alright?” We replied that we were alright, but that we were getting on the Tube for the first time and trying to figure out the system. He showed us the way to our train. Later, a cashier asked Katie, “Are you alright?” and she responded that she was fine and then asked if he was alright. We were beginning to think that we must really look like a wreck and in need of help, but Ramon later explained to us that in England “Are you alright?” is used the instead of “How are you?” We were relieved to know that we don’t look like a total pity case.
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This is a great blog entry! Now I know I have to go to London and of course, the National Gallery.
Comment by Carol Friberg June 6, 2010 @ 9:37 pmSince they have two Vermeers, Joe will probably be willing to go as part of his quest to see all of Vermeer’s paintings. I can see right away just from the pictures the difference between London and Ghent, even between London and Brussels. It has a different feel. Not at all unpleasing, just differnt. You and your children have truly had amazing experiences this past year. You’ll never forget it. See you soon in Mpls.
Love, Mom/Carol